Extracts from the journal kept during a visit to some of the interior tribes of southern Africa, in the year 1826

Abstract

This journal extract details the experiences of Mr Andrew Geddes Bain during his 1826 expedition into the interior of Southern Africa, focusing on his visit to the Baralong tribe led by King Towan, and his subsequent journey toward the Bawanketzie kingdom.

I. Visit to the Baralongs (August 14–16)

Bain describes his arrival at Towan's temporary kraal, where he was greeted with a tumultuous yet friendly reception, though the women and children fled in terror of the "Macooa" (white man). The chief, Towan, was initially taciturn and reserved, only becoming more communicative after receiving a gift of tobacco.

The greatest challenge at Towan's camp was the execrable water of the Mallopo River pool, which was composed of mud and animal/human waste. Despite the filth, Bain noted the Baralongs were preparing to move to their old town, expecting Bain's party to accompany them, an offer which Bain declined.

II. Geography, Trade, and Customs

• Mallopo River: Its bed was not a running stream but a vley (pool), said to originate in the Bamarootzie country (N.E.).

• Trade: Towan bartered a single ox, but the Baralongs discouraged the travellers from proceeding, spinning exaggerated tales of Mantatee cruelties, which Bain strongly doubted.

• Customs: Bain noted the Bichuana hooka (a water pipe made from a gemsbok horn) used for smoking tobacco. He also observed the singular custom of all Bichuana kraals being built at a distance (half a mile to three miles) from their water sources, possibly to attract wild animals into their surrounding pit-falls.

III. Journey to the Bawanketzies (August 16–20)

• The party departed without a guide, relying on their compass, until their paid guide, Manghela, rejoined them.

• The route was difficult, passing through a thick camel-thorn forest. Bain noted a scarcity of water, forcing the use of contaminated pool water, which caused illness (Hospital Wood).

• At Korea (August 17), the wells were deep pits in the sand, frequently choked by elephants. The party eventually reached Sibootzaanie (August 19), finding two fine ponds/lakes of excellent water—the first welcome sight of water and distant mountains since leaving the Chae lake.

• Hunting: During the journey, Bain shot a large white rhinoceros in a dramatic encounter where the wounded animal charged. The party was saved by dropping behind a bush, and the rhinoceros inadvertently dislodged a local herdsman from a tree.

• Wildlife: The lakes at Sibootzaanie were frequented by game (quaggas, rhinoceroses, cameleopards), which approached with extreme caution due to the prevalence of pit-falls. Bain also regretfully missed a sighting of large aquatic birds that appeared to be black swans.

The travellers were met by a friendly delegation from Sibigho, King of the Bawenketzie, who indicated that their visit would be welcome.